In May, vineyard managers turn their attention to replanting vineyards that have outlived their usefulness for reasons of age, disease or the fall from grace of their varietals. While the Kunde crew bulldozes these underperformers, Old Vine Zinfandels are left alone to do what they do best. Our elderly plant sprouts buds from nooks and crannies that seem all but dead. They unfurl into spiky leaves, each a work of art. Just days later, nubby little shoots push past the foliage. At the end are tight clusters of blossoms, each of which can theoretically become a grape.
Life in the vineyards is a comforting cycle, with predictable things happening at regular intervals. Vines hibernate, awaken, stretch their arms and propagate. They endure drought and humidity, fend off insects and bacteria, gestate and produce fruit. At the end, they're given a figurative pat on the back and allowed to rest before the next go-round.
Only those of us lucky enough to live here enjoy the gradual progression from one stage to the next, which is why I wanted to capture it on film. There's no better way to hone your wine appreciation than to watch the miracle in progress.
Better photographers and film makers have documented the growing season in their own ways, the best of which are Don Wallace's book "The Wine Grape's Journey: The Farmer's Year" and Rob DaFoe's film, "From Ground to Glass." But in "Vine to Wine", I hope to give you science, a little news, a lot of scenery and a sense of wonder as growers and winemakers coax something delicious from Sonoma's rich, rocky soils. Five generations of the Kunde family have been doing that since the 1800s, and they'll likely continue for generations to come. With their permission, we can follow along.
In May, vineyard managers turn their attention to replanting vineyards that have outlived their usefulness for reasons of age, disease or the fall from grace of their varietals. While the Kunde crew bulldozes these underperformers, Old Vine Zinfandels are left alone to do what they do best. Our elderly plant sprouts buds from nooks and crannies that seem all but dead. They unfurl into spiky leaves, each a work of art. Just days later, nubby little shoots push past the foliage. At the end are tight clusters of blossoms, each of which can theoretically become a grape.
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